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Inherently secure Bowlines include: EBSB Bowline, Scott's locked Bowline, Lee's link Bowline, Harry Butlers Yosemite Bowline. There's no risk that you'll need to cut the rope off your harness. There's no risk that you'll need to cut the rope off your harness. The Yosemite finish can be applied to other bowline variants, such as the double bowline. — Quest for climbing without avoidable risks, Submitted by masa on Wed, 2017-08-02 21:57.
This knot is not as well known or as universally used as the figure 8—many climbers may not know how to check the bowline.
You are just as likely to make a mistake tying a figure 8 knot than with any other 'Bowline'. The site may not work properly if you don't, If you do not update your browser, we suggest you visit, Press J to jump to the feed.
In fact, there is a class of structures known as 'secure Bowlines'. If you do tie it, double check it yourself, everytime. There is nothing more embarrassing than whipping off a route on a bad day, get pumped out, and can't even untie your fig 8. Yosemite Bowline knot has served me well so far. Furthermore, the failure mode you describe in your video is incorrect.
However, I do not use it during multi-pitch climbing or in winter, because I did notice its tendency to come loose over an extensive period of time, probably after the knot has been rubbed by something surrounding without me noticing. It is stronger, and is even easier to untie after the load, than the standard Bowline. I'm sort of glad I'd never heard if it. Here is the detailed background, followed by some discussion. Once the rope end comes undone, what will happen when loaded is obvious, as demonstrated near the end in my video. Same goes with screw-gate carabiners - climbers often forget to lock them - so in response, manufacturers offer self-locking twist-lock style gates. TL;DR Is a Yosemite Bowline w/ safety knot good to use/used by other climbers on r/climbing? In other words, if you tie-in using one the inherently secure Bowlines, it is perfectly fine and does not require any form of backup stopper knot.
Weidner says it also takes more time and expertise to visually inspect the bowline, even when you know the knot well.
Personally, I like the figure 8 because it is so quick and easy to visually inspect.
Some sport climbers also use the double bowline for tying in because it’s easy to untie after multiple falls. wrap around the rope 4-5 times, instead of my friends who wrap twice.
Presumably, when you use the word 'Bowline' - you might in fact be referring to #1010 Common Bowline. Lines and paragraphs break automatically. Reply: This statement is factually incorrect. Note that they all are to some extent more awkward to dress (or set) the knot properly, and hence the caution in tying is still essential. Submitted by Daniel J (not verified) on Sun, 2018-09-23 09:35. The correct and wrong-handed ways are topologically identical, and so by definition they are interchangeable with an external force. You can increase the safety of the knot by adding a stopper knot like the, Double Yosemite bowline – It is basically a, Easier to untie under wet and frozen conditions and after taking on a load than the. For example, if you want to compare particular off-road 4WD (SUV) vehicle against another vehicle, you need to select another 4WD (SUV). However, it has been known to untie itself, especially if the rope is stiff. Bowline is more difficult for partners to check (partly because many modern climbers don't know it in the first place).
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How to tie the Yosemite Bowline Knot. My climbing buddy and I were looking around at random climbing stuff, as well as random knots on the internet, and finally the 2 collided, and we came across the Yosemite Bowline. Posts in all Forums, Free edit: the i.e.
This is because there is NO possibility of getting loose by itself. Your words 'Figure 8 is far more foolproof than knot XYZ' is a relative concept. (A similar tucking is recommended (by me) with that DAV-recommended tie-in. As has already been mentioned it's easy to tie something that looks like it that will just fall apart.
Here is my video to demonstrate the point — risk of Yosemite Bowline. Submitted by Mark Gommers (not verified) on Mon, 2019-05-13 10:56, I note that there are numerous errors in your article. As with all knots, practice is key. And the "Yosemite Finish" to the figure out (also called a figure-9 finish) where you just loop the tail through one more time (there's a link in a comment already) is easy to untie after many whippers, and simple to inspect. That person simply posted an experience that he was involved with - with a deliberately loosened knot and a deliberately induced snag. Quote from Masa: The failure mode is induced by pulling on the tail before the core of the knot has been properly cinched tight.
The only reason falling on an incorrectly tied bowline isn't more embarrassing is that, at best, you will be so thankful to be alive you will forget about the embarrassment. The home of Climbing on reddit. Submitted by masa on Fri, 2018-06-15 21:46. Do you realize that you are circulating misinformation into the public domain? If you aren't 200% sure the knot you are tying is correct then you should not use it to tie into the rope. It's super fast to tie and super easy to untie. The fact does cast some doubt over its reliability. Because of the danger of incorrectly tying the Yosemite bowline, it may be safer and less error-prone to use a standard or double bowline with a backup stopper knot added to the tail, such as a double overhand knot tied around the loop. If you're a wiz at knots (IE - knot geek, professional rigger, sailor) than go ahead and use the yosemite follow through.
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